Friday, September 5, 2014

Bali: Day 2

With my motorbike roaring along the road, wind blowing in my hair, and the biggest smile across my face, I couldn't help but think in that moment: this is the life


With cliche notes from popular literature such as 'Eat, Pray, Love' tucked in the back of my mind, I tried in all earnest to not be swept away by the romanticization of Bali. While rich in culture and experiences, Bali in itself is still a highly poverty filled nation, struck by an imbalance in the economy: rice fields vs. tourism. Bali's traditional agriculture-driven economy only contributes 20% of local GDP while tourism contributes 50 to 80% of GDP. This demonstrates that Bali is quickly becoming too dependent on tourism. Heartbreak. Hailing from a state in the US that is dependent on agriculture and small town farmers, my heart empathizes more with the locals in independent villages.


With all nerdy facts aside, the sights of traditional rice farms and local villages brought genuine joy to my traveling heart. You see, I am not a "tourist-trap" kind of gal. While certain sights are worth exploring (take the Grand Canyon for example), I generally steer clear of the souvenir shops all adorning 'I love ____ products,' the expensive resorts/villas, and over crowded beaches [thats more than enough to give me a heart attack]. Instead, I prefer to explore the traditional side of a country I am visiting. I want to eat traditional food, meet local natives, try my hand at the language, and immerse myself into their culture. I can't find that at resort where cabana boys fan me and bring me drinks I could never afford. **Note, these are strictly my opinions, and I don't mean to offend if you are this type of traveler. In fact, I envy your traveling style at times. We all have our preferences. 

Needless to say, I found myself trapped at Purah Tanah Lot. 'Purah' means temple, and Bali is the central hub to spirituality and temples alike. So, I couldn't help but follow the signs on the road leading me to an anticipated path of enlightenment. 


Wrong. There was nothing enlightening about the hundreds of foreigners alike, all crammed atop the temple situated atop artificial rock. With Purah Tanah regarded as a highly important and spiritual center by the Balinese, I couldn't help but cringe at the commercialization of it all: vendors photographers, and warung (food stalls). I couldn't even think to myself, let alone snap a few pictures without some crazy Asians pushing me aside with their 'selfie-sticks.' Sigh. Tired, upset, and with the sun setting quickly; I knew I needed to book it out of Tanah fast. 



Little did I know the next three hours would be an adventure in itself. I was scheduled to stay with a local Balinese family off the village of Desa Cepaka, supposedly a "12 minute drive" from Purah Tanah Lot. So, you can imagine my surprise and frustration as I kept winding and circling the same roads two or three times en route to this remote village. Locals would laugh and smile as I pulled up, asking where this supposed village was, and in reply (always), "That way for many many time." Cue angry face.

What the? Ok. I'll try one more time...only to find myself driving by them once more, their heads cocked back in laughter at my misfortune. Looks like I should have made an offering after all...


After stopping at a Warung for much needed physical fuel and water, I was able to hop on wi-fi and reroute myself to said village. An easy 15 minutes later, I found my home-stay and was immediately welcomed by the most beautiful Balinese family in midst of an important Balinese temple ceremony. (Classic Jbrown moment to interrupt) 

Completely embarrassed by my loud intrusion, I hung in the distance, waiting for the ceremony to finish. Upon completion, I bowed ever so graciously to my new hosts and was greeted with the most wonderful hugs known on Earth. At last: a familial feeling.

Ayu and her husband, Made, showed me wonderful hospitality at once: a bed, hot shower, wonderful Balinese food, and a peek into their village ceremony. I was filled to the brim with food, love, and warmth. This....was Bali. The Bali that so many authors, poets, and travelers alike have raved about. The Bali that so many have struggled to put into words [and photographs]. The Bali I would soon fall quickly in love with. The Bali that felt like home. 






Home-Stay: www.booking.com
Jl. Desa Cepaka
Tip: Arrange for transport as they will pick you up at the airport! 
The family has two daughters in private school, consider leaving a tip to help fund their education. You will be blessed in return with fresh fruit and water. 
Cost: base 200,000RP dinner 50,000RP 
Total (with tip): 275,000RP =$23
 
[Excuse my less than quality iPhone pictures. Went back to the iPhone 4. What an incredible difference from the 4 to the 5s. Curse you, Apple.] 

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