During the holidays I had the exciting opportunity to travel by myself to the Philippines. As I mentioned in my previous post, I didn't really have a set itinerary, rather I was open to exploring and seeing where life would take me. One such place that I am happy I stumbled [or trekked] upon was located in San Antonio, Zambales: Anawangin Cove.
Mountains + Ocean = LOVE.
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| "Men go abroad to wonder at the heights of mountains, at the huge waves of the sea, at the long courses of the rivers, at the vast compass of the ocean, at the circular motions of the stars, and they pass by themselves without wondering." -St. Augustine |
This isolated beauty is a crescent shaped cove tucked away in the lush green and chocolate colored mountains of Mount Pundaquit near the town proper of Pundaquit and San Antonio, Zambales. The aqua tinted waters crash effortlessly upon a beach filled with gorgeous white sand that is intertwined with volcanic ash that erupted long ago from Mt. Pinatubo while the tallest of Agoho pine trees loom overhead. You are instantly filled with wonder, mystique, and a hunger to explore.
Rocky mountains cascade beautifully in the distance offering plentiful hiking and climbing opportunities. Boats flow in and out with chances to visit other coves or islands such as Nagassa Cove, Capones Island, or Camara Island. The air is filled with laughter and joy from other campers and beach-goers alike enjoying conversation, bonfires, and music. A perfect destination for all to hide away and escape the realities of life.
In order to reach paradise, you must be ready to do some adventurous traveling. The cove is tucked away from civilization and direct access by road is impossible. You have two options to reach the cove: hiking or boating. If you are not an avid nor experienced hiker, I recommend taking a boat. While the climb is nowhere near difficult, you must remember that the open trails are very hot under the Philippine sun after 8am. There is limited shade, high humidity, and you will need to be adequately prepared with water [think double the amount of your body weight]. So, unless you are traveling in a group where water and pack weight can be properly distributed, I recommend boating.
How to Get to Anawangin Cove
1. BUSYou will need to take a bus to STA Cruz or Iba, Zambales. Buses are a great and affordable way to get out of the city and explore all that the Philippines has to offer.
From Manila, catch a Victory Liner bus at the Pasay Terminal bound to Iba, Zambales [P357]. You can tell the cashier/bus driver that you will be getting off at the San Antonio Public Market which is located next to their city hall.
Travel total time: 6 hours.
San Antonio is a very small town with many different SariSari's (independent stores), a 7-11, a WesternUnion, and a few restaurants. Make sure you stock up on food, water, and supplies before heading to Pundaquit as it will be your last chance.
I made the mistake of traveling during a major holiday and showing up 30 minutes before scheduled departure which left me in despair as I stood in a line that wrapped around the station. Fortunately, I found myself on another bus that was bound for Olongapo. From Olongapo I had to transfer on another bus going to San Antonio (which was only 30 minutes away and cost me less than P80 (around $1.77).
2. DRIVE
If you travel to the Philippines and have the fortunate opportunity to rent a car while traveling, it will only take you 4 hours or less by SCTEX to get to San Antonio/Pundaquit. Easy peasy.
3. TRICYCLE
Once you get to San Antonio, you will need to hire a tricycle to get you to the jump off point at Barangay Pundaquit.
If you mention to your driver that you want to go to Anawangin Cove or Pundaquit, they will know exactly where to take you. Some drivers are very loyal with certain boatmen and will take you directly to them. I was very fortunate to find a driver who was in relation with a family that offered tents, water, hiking and boat service to Anawangin.
Cost of tricycle should be less than P60 total [P30 per person if there are two people].
Travel time: 15-20 minutes
4. HIKING
If you are feeling adventurous and want to experience the gorgeous landscape of Mt. Pundaquit; I suggest hiring a guide, or local, [P500] and trek through the mountains en route to Anawangin. However, as I said before, make sure that you bring an adequate supply of water with you or tell the boatmen at Barangay [jump off point] to bring a 5 gallon jug of water on their next route to the cove. Boats come in and out quite frequently and will often make arrangements to bring you supplies if you choose to hike.
My guide was very experienced and took me on a very direct route to the cove. He carried a machete which was used to cut through bushes and to ward off potential predators, such as the infamous carabao, or what we commonly know as the "water buffalo."
Total travel time: Depending on your level of energy, heat, and ambition of guide, total hiking time should not exceed 6 hours. My guide pushed me to my limits physically and we approached summit in less than 3 hours and descended in an hour.
And he hiked in flip-flops. Real men hike in flip-flops.
5. BOATING
If you want a more direct and less stressful route to the cove, you can hire a boatmen for P1000 [~$20]. This is the cost for the entire boat roundtrip, so again, I suggest you travel in a group or at least try to find a group that you can distribute the cost a bit more evenly. Some boatmen will not allow you to share whereas others will [supply and demand]. It's all about bartering at the jump off point, so do whatever you are comfortable with. I didn't see others around the area I was in so I just hired a boatmen to pick me up in 3 days for P1000.
Travel total time is around 45 minutes.
TIP: The boat ride is very bumpy and thrilling, so seasick prone people should be prepared with a dose of Dramamine.
What to Bring
If you do decide to visit the cove and do some camping, here are some tips to help you pack.- Tents- Again, there are tents to rent near the jump off point for P200-P300 per night. The tents can be quite small, so if there is a large group traveling, you may want to bring your own tent(s). My tent was barely big enough for one person, let alone others. If you don't own a tent, borrow a tent from friends or you can wait until you get to the Philippines and buy your own for P800 at one of the SariSari's or DIY camping stalls.
- Food- Seems like a no-brainer, but I've heard plenty of stories from the locals about how unprepared people show up to the cove empty-handed and hungry. If staying for more than a day, you will want to bring food that is easy to prepare, creates minimal waste, and will nourish you throughout the day. I brought plenty of protein bars, small cans of tuna, dried nuts, berries, oatmeal (I own a JetBoil), ramen, and other fruit such as tangerines, apples, mango, and banana.
- Water- You will be in a secluded area where water is unfiltered and is run through a pump. Unless you have a fancy filtration system or if you feel like boiling water before drinking, it is strongly advised you bring plenty of filtered/clean water. There are 5 gallon jugs you can purchase from boatmen or from Cove management but since water can be scarce, be forewarned.
- Flashlight/Headlight- This was probably my favorite investment that I made for my trip because there was NO electricity on the island. I had no problem throwing on my headlamp and going to the bathroom in the middle of the night. I also used my headlight in the city to scare off peddlers and unwanted jeepney solicitors in Manila!
- Sunblock- The sun can get very hot and direct during the daytime, so be prepared to lather up with some good ol' SPF to keep that beautiful skin safe from the harsh Philippine rays.
- Rope- Another great tool I found handy! Since I went swimming a lot and sweat most of my body weight from hiking, it was nice to have an improvised clothesline to hang my clothes out to dry!
- Camera- The cove offers plenty of beauty that you will want to capture: crystal clear waters, white sandy beaches, majestic mountains, and more!
- Mosquito repellent- This was HARD, nearly impossible, to find in any of the stores I visited in Manila. I was glad that I already had mosquito repellent lotion with me or I would have been out of luck. The mosquitos weren't so bad during my stay in December, but since I haven't visited during other times in the year, it's always nice to come prepared.
Where to Stay at Anawangin Cove
- Camping is the only way to go while visiting Anawangin. Many tourists often visit the cove unprepared for the rustic atmosphere and often leave with complaints about the lack of electricity, air conditioning, tents, cabins, food, etc. Granted, there are SariSari's on the beach that sell basic food supplies [tuna, water, ramen, snacks] but it is best that you come prepared with food, water, tents and other camping gear to last your stay. Also, there are tents you can rent in Barangay before boating to the cove for P200 per night or you can bring your tent [much more affordable].
- Overnight camping fee: P100 per night
- Entrance fee (if not staying overnight): P50
Now, the main reason for these fees is largely based on the fact that the cove is free of development. In order to keep larger corporations out of the cove, local families running the Cove need an income to keep the park from harm such as companies tearing down the natural landscape to provide larger resorts. Considering the cove has already naturally recovered from prior natural disasters--such as the Agoho pines growing through volcanic ash-- it would be a great shame for it to be torn down by man. Keep the forests alive by paying nominal park fees and support your local businesses and families of Pundaquit.
My personal recommendation for camping in Anawangin Cove is with Wildlife and Nature Camping Site. These people were friendly, open, and very welcoming. They take great care of their campsites and welcome guests as family.
Phone: +63 946 300 4034
Contact: Mabel
Phone: +63 946 300 4034
Contact: Mabel
- Resorts/Inns- If camping really isn't your style, then I recommend that you check out some resorts and inns near Pundaquit. One hostel that I wish I had time to explore was The Circle Hostel Zambales in San Felipe, Zambales. A hostel with yoga, surfing, hammocks, art and painting, slack lining, skim boarding and more! How could you resist such a beautiful place? Other recommendations follow: Wild Rose Beach Inn, Nora's Beach Resort, and Megan's Beach Resort.
Expenses
As a single traveler I was able to save a decent amount of money while visiting Anawangin Cove even though I had to pay more upfront for my boat. However, I scored some sweet deals with my guide, renting a tent, and even a discount on my bus tickets which help offset my overall costs.Here's an estimated breakdown of the costs for a trip to Anawangin Cove:
TRAVEL FARE
P347- Bus from Manila to San Antonio, Zambales
P60- Tricycle from San Antonio Public Market to Barangay Pundaquit (P30 per person)
BOAT
P1000- Roundtrip per boat (easily divided among multiple passengers)
TENT
P200/night- Cheaper to bring your own!
CAMPING FEE
P100/night
P50- entrance fee if not staying overnight
FOOD
P500-P800- This is up to you and how much food you will want to eat/or need for the duration of your trip. I believe my average costs were less than P300 since I brought a lot of stuff from Korea and food is very cheap in Manila.
If you are looking for place that offers quality downtime yet is filled with adventure; you won't be disappointed with this magical place as the cove has plenty to offer every traveler. Anawangin Cove is definitely a place I will gladly call home.
Happy travels! Mabuhay.
